Sumac
“What exactly is sumac?” – one of the questions I get asked the most. Sumac is actually a berry that once dried, is ground down and most traditionally used by Iranians as a citrusy seasoning to sprinkle onto kebabs and roasted meats to cut through the fat of the meat beautifully. In Persian kebab restaurants, it is a staple fixture on the table along with salt and pepper. But today, where Middle Eastern cookery has become increasingly popular, new uses seem to emerge on a daily basis as to how best to use it and I would say, it is most definitely something that deserves to be a store cupboard staple.
Sumac is also commonly used as a dye for fabrics and clothing in the Middle East and some varieties are extremely high in antioxidants. Our very own Tudor King, Henry VIII infamous feasts would often see sumac make and appearance and although the evidence is vague, it is thought that it was Henry VIII’s reign that could well explain the presence of sumac trees growing in Britain today. A quick googling of the word ‘sumac’ will provide you with the image of a sumac tree and you may be surprised as just how common they are in this country, so much so you may pass one each day. Although the variety that produce the edible berries are less common in the UK, among the 14 varieties of Sumac in existence, there are 2 white sumac varietals that are poisonous, so stick to procuring yours at the supermarket for now.
Sometimes dubbed ‘the purple citrus’, sumac has a wonderful citric flavour that really works wherever lemon juice usually would; specifically with delicate white fish, instead of squeezing it with lemon juice, pan fry the fish and remove the fish, sprinkle in a little sumac and a knob of butter and once melted, pour over the fish and serve.
Sumac really is an incredibly delicate and versatile ingredient with lots of flavour and a gentle aroma. It is a store cupboard secret weapon and even makes for an interesting addition to cocktails, too. Be brave when using it, don’t be afraid to be generous to best showcase it’s wonderfully lemony flavour and keep it away from sunlight as you always want the spice to retain its deep ruby-red vibrancy to ensure it fulfils its flavour potential.
5 Ways With… Sumac
Season cooked grilled/roasted red meats (especially lamb) with a sprinkle of sumac
Make a butter compound for white meat/chicken/seafood using sumac, crushed garlic, fresh herbs and citrus zests
Add sumac to salads and tomato bruschetta
Make a spice rub using sumac, cumin, cinnamon, garlic granules and rose petals and use for lamb/pork and beef roasting joints
Roll soft goats cheese into little balls and dust them with sumac and serve as snacks for drinks or add them into salads